Clothing the Past : Surviving Garments from Early Medieval to Early Modern Western Europe.

Intro -- Contents -- Preface -- List of Illustrations -- The Authors -- Notes -- General Introduction -- Origins of the Study -- Scope of the Study -- Circumstance of Survival of Complete (or Almost Complete) Garments -- Chance Finds -- Burial Dress -- Finds from Archaeological Excavations -- Items of Dress Surviving in Treasuries -- Garments of Unknown Origin -- Life after Life/Afterlife -- Sets and Collections of Garments -- Weaves and Other Constructional Techniques -- Non-Textile Materials -- Embroidered Decoration -- Inscriptions -- Iconography -- Imperial/Royal Iconography -- Christian Iconography -- Heraldry and Other Decoration of Secular Significance -- Everyday Wear -- Style and Fashion -- A Final Word -- 1 Headgear: Hat, Cap, Hood, Mitre -- Introduction -- 1.1 Orkney Hood -- 1.2 Bocksten Hood -- 1.3 York Silk Hood or Cap -- 1.4 Cap of St Birgitta -- 1.5 Headdress from Dokkum-Berg Sion -- 1.6 Little Sampford Hat -- 1.7 Birette of Prince Fernando de la Cerda -- 1.8 Composite Mitre from Salzburg -- 1.9 Mitre with the Martyrdoms of St Thomas Becket and St Stephen -- 1.10 Jewelled Mitre of William of Wykeham -- 2 Outer Garments: Copes, Cloaks and Mantles -- Introduction -- 2.1 'Star Mantle' of Emperor Henry II -- 2.2 'Coronation Mantle' of King Stephen of Hungary -- 2.3 Mantle of King Roger II of Sicily -- 2.4 Mantle of Philip of Swabia -- 2.5 Mantle of Emperor Otto IV -- 2.6 Mantle of Prince Fernando de la Cerda -- 2.7 Blue Mantle of St Kunigunde -- 2.8 Syon Cope -- 2.9 Hildesheim Cope -- 2.10 Butler-Bowdon Cope -- 3 The Priestly Outer Garment: Chasuble -- Introduction -- 3.1 Bell Chasuble Attributed to St Willigilis -- 3.2 Bressanone (Brixen) Chasuble -- 3.3 Castel Sant'Elia Chasuble as Reliquary -- 3.4 Clare Chasuble -- 3.5 Melk Chasuble -- 3.6 Striped Egyptian Silk Chasuble -- 3.7 Erpingham Chasuble -- 3.8 Italian Voided Velvet Chasuble.

3.9 Blue Wool Chasuble with Applied Embroidered Cross -- 3.10 Fiddleback Chasuble from Munich -- 4 Body Garments of Wool and Linen: Tunic, Shirt, Alb -- Introduction -- 4.1 Bocksten Tunic -- 4.2 Greenland Gown with Short Sleeves -- 4.3 Greenland Gown with Buttoned Sleeves -- 4.4 Cowl of St Francis of Assisi -- 4.5 Shirt of St Louis -- 4.6 Alb Attributed to St Thomas Becket -- 4.7 Alb Attributed to St Bernulph of Utrecht -- 4.8 Embroidered Alb with Embroidered Apparels in Cologne -- 4.9 Alb with Embroidered Apparels in Munich -- 4.10 Lucera Alb with Embroidered Apparels -- 5 Rich Body Garments: Tunic, Gown, Overgown, Dalmatic and Tunicle -- Introduction -- 5.1 Saya Encordata of Eleanor of Castile, Queen of Aragón -- 5.2 Pellote of Eleanor of Castile, Queen of Aragón -- 5.3 Striped Pellote of Don Fernando -- 5.4 Saya Encordata of Prince Fernando de La Cerda -- 5.5 'Golden Gown' of Queen Margaret -- 5.6 Dalmatic of St Ulrich -- 5.7 Mi-parti Dalmatic -- 5.8 Göss Dalmatic -- 5.9 Tunicle of Pere d'Urg -- 5.10 'Eagle Dalmatic' of the Holy Roman Empire -- 6 Upper Body and Front Fastening Garments: Undergarment, Padded Garment, Coat-Like Garment -- Introduction -- 6.1 Bodice or Brassiere from Lengberg Castle, Nikolsdorf -- 6.2 Auqueton of the Blessed Isabelle of France -- 6.3 Rationale from Regensberg -- 6.4 Greenland Buttoned and Collared Gown -- 6.5 Rothwell Jack -- 6.6 Jupon or Coat-Armour of the Black Prince -- 6.7 Pourpoint of Charles of Blois -- 6.8 Pourpoint of Charles VI of France -- 6.9 Guibbone of Don Garçia de'Medici -- 6.10 Guibbone of Duke Cosimo I de'Medici -- 7 Loin and Leg Coverings: Underpants, Hose, Sock, Buskin -- Introduction -- 7.1 Underpants from Lengberg Castle, Nikolsdorf -- 7.2 Bocksten Hose -- 7.3 Greenland Stocking -- 7.4 Garter from London -- 7.5 Sock from York -- 7.6 Sock from Uppsala -- 7.7 Buskins Attributed to St Germanus.

7.8 Buskins of Pope Clement II -- 7.9 Buskins Attributed to St Dizier (Desiderius) -- 7.10 Buskins of Archbishop Hubert Walter -- 8 Minor Vestments: Stole, Maniple, Amice, Pallium, Ecclesiastical Girdle, Humeral Veil -- Introduction -- 8.1 Belt of Ailbecunda -- 8.2 Belt of Witgar -- 8.3 Pallium with Embroidered Chi-Rho Emblem Associated with St Caesarius of Arles and Later Silk Casing -- 8.4 Pallium and Casing 'aux Lièvres' of Saint Caesarius of Arles -- 8.5 Matching Stole and Maniple from the Tomb of St Cuthbert -- 8.6 Maniple of St Ulrich -- 8.7 Heraldic Stole -- 8.8 Humeral Veil (?) from Maaseik, known as the Velamen of St Harlindis -- 8.9 Amice from Munich -- 8.10 Amice from Cologne -- 9 Footwear: Shoe, Boot, Slipper, Patten -- Introduction -- 9.1 Pair of Shoes from Oseberg -- 9.2 Shoe Mounted on a Bone Skate, from York -- 9.3 London Shoe with Drawstring and Long Toe -- 9.4 Embroidered Shoe from Bryggen, Bergen -- 9.5 London Poulaine -- 9.6 London Patten -- 9.7 Boots from a Bog Burial Near Peiting -- 9.8 Shoes of St Germanus -- 9.9 Shoe Attributed to St Dizier (Desiderius) -- 9.10 Shoes of Archbishop Hubert Walter -- 10 Accessories: Mitten, Glove, Secular Belt, Possible Headdress Decoration or Cloak Ties -- Introduction -- 10.1 Icelandic Naalbinding Mitten -- 10.2 Linked Woven Mittens from Iceland -- 10.3 Episcopal Gloves (St Sabinus Gloves) from Canosa -- 10.4 Bressanone (Brixen) Episcopal Gloves -- 10.5 Episcopal Gloves of William Warham -- 10.6 Reliquary Gloves of Blessed Christina von Stommeln -- 10.7 Heraldic Girdle of Fernando de la Cerda -- 10.8 Girdle of Philip of Swabia -- 10.9 Enamelled Girdle Associated with William of Wykeham -- 10.10 Possible Headband Decoration or Cloak Tie from the Tomb of St Cuthbert -- Glossary -- Index.

One hundred surviving garments are discussed with colour plates. Ranging from high art to homely, some are associated with known persons, others are anonymous, yet their histories - of recycling, repairing, augmenting - illuminate times when textile was handmade and precious.

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Electronic reproduction. Ann Arbor, Michigan : ProQuest Ebook Central, 2024. Available via World Wide Web. Access may be limited to ProQuest Ebook Central affiliated libraries.