Fashion and Jazz : Dress, Identity and Subcultural Improvisation.
- 1st ed.
- 1 online resource (217 pages)
- Dress, Body, Culture Series .
- Dress, Body, Culture Series .
Cover page -- Halftitle page -- Series page -- Title page -- Copyright page -- Contents -- Illustrations -- ACKNOWLEDGMENTS -- INTRODUCTION -- Signifi cance of a fashion and jazz history -- 1 DRESS THEORY, FASHION AND A JAZZ AESTHETIC -- Pattern of influence between fashion and jazz -- Freedom of expression in fashion and jazz -- The role of fashion -- A language of dress in jazz -- The influential fashion system -- The representation of dress -- Defining a jazz aesthetic -- Conclusion -- 2 A STYLISH HISTORY OF JAZZ: 1900-1960 -- Origins of jazz expression -- Ragtime music -- Ragtime era fashion -- Blues music -- Blues era fashion -- Swing music -- Swing era fashion -- Bebop music -- Bebop era fashion -- Modern jazz: Music and fashion -- Conclusion -- 3 A NARRATIVE OF JAZZ MODERNITY -- Postmodern identity in jazz -- Qualities of modernism in jazz -- Modern ideals in fashion -- Visually modern -- Communicating modernity -- Modern practices of jazz performers -- Conclusion -- 4 ASSESSING ELITISM AND BRANDING IN JAZZ -- Societal opposition to jazz -- An elite identity -- Male dress conformity -- Evolution of feminine attraction -- Signifying class distinction -- Exhibiting an eccentric manner -- Branding jazz in advertising -- Classic marketing of jazz -- Contemporary marketing of jazz -- Conclusion -- 5 GENDERED IDENTITIES, IDEOLOGIES AND CULTURAL DIFFERENCE -- Functions of published sheet music -- Imagining black culture -- Female representations: Mammy, highbrow and temptress -- Male representations: Servant, buffoon and sport -- Conclusion -- 6 SUBVERSIVE REPRESENTATION: VERNACULAR, DRESS AND MORALITY -- Radical notions of jazz -- Spoken word of blues singers -- Jazz themes in literature -- Visual image in fi lms -- Conclusion -- 7 NARCOTICS AND JAZZ: A FASHIONABLE ADDICTION -- Narcotic effect -- Demonizing drug addiction. Concealing addiction with fashion -- Performing addiction in film -- Conclusion -- 8 BEYOND THE GARDENIA: BILLIE HOLIDAY -- Plain dame -- Lost in Hollywood -- Lady's day -- 1930s: Draped in tradition -- 1940s: An icon emerges -- 1950s: Beyond the gardenia -- Conclusion -- 9 AESTHETICS OF THE JAZZ DANDY -- Like Gods -- Traditional dandy: Duke Ellington -- Traditional dandy: Benny Carter -- Modern dandy: Dizzy Gillespie -- Modern dandy: Gerry Mulligan -- Decoding jazz aesthetics in Clinton and Obama -- 10 PHILADELPHIA NIGHTLIFE, NOSTALGIA AND POPULAR CULTURE -- Philadelphia: Jazz city unsung -- Desiring jazz prestige -- Last call -- CODA -- APPENDIX I: RECOMMENDED LISTENING -- APPENDIX II: RECOMMENDED VIEWING -- BIBLIOGRAPHY -- INDEX -- Untitled.