Fashion and Popular Print in Early Modern England : Depicting Dress in Black-Letter Ballads.
- 1st ed.
- 1 online resource (274 pages)
Cover -- Half-title -- Endorsement -- Title page -- Copyright information -- Table of contents -- Illustrations -- Citations and abbreviations -- Introduction -- 1 Commodities of Print and Dress -- Producing textiles and paper -- Wool -- Silk -- Cotton -- Linen -- Paper -- Selling textiles and paper -- Itinerant sellers -- Pedlars in ballads -- Pedlars' commodities -- Consuming textiles and paper -- The importance of London -- Proliferating fashion and print -- Little luxuries -- Commodities of print and dress -- 2 Ballad Comment on Dress -- Traditional commentary in the 1620s and 30s -- Social hierarchy -- Social justice -- New contexts -- New narratives after 1680 -- Shoemakers -- Tailors -- Weavers -- New commentaries: weavers and pro-fashion economics -- Ballad comment on dress -- 3 Ballad Pictures -- Addressing ballad pictures -- Ballads, books and woodcuts -- Images in books and ballads -- The look of ballad sheets -- Miniatures and bust-length portraits -- Picturing garments and the 'heraldic' convention -- Drapery and the 'classical' convention -- Draperies into woodcut -- Resolving the commodity -- Conventions of clothes and the body -- 4 Classical Ideals and Satirical Deviations, Part I -- Gendering the 'classical' convention -- The armoured body -- Engendered by war -- Marital relations and national politics -- Satirising men's fashion -- New courtiers and men about town -- Wigs: subject or abject -- Picturing 'satirical' men -- Masculinity, fashion and the defence of the nation -- 5 Classical Ideals and Satirical Deviations, Part II -- 'Classical' femininity: bared breasts -- Who bared their breasts? -- Ballad breasts: love and devotion -- Ballad breasts: sexuality -- Satire on fashion -- The gendered politics of fashion satire -- Female bodies, feminine fashions and economic benefits -- Epilogue -- New Kinds of Dress. Calico Riots and Calico Ballads -- Fashion and Popular Print in Early Modern England -- Notes -- Select Bibliography -- Principal ballad collections consulted -- Select primary sources, published in London (unless otherwise stated) -- Select secondary sources -- Acknowledgements -- Index of Ballad Titles -- Index.