A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Age of Empire.

Cover page -- Series page -- Halftitle page -- Title page -- Copyright page -- CONTENTS -- LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS -- Introduction -- CHAPTER ONE Textiles -- PLAINS: ACTUAL AND SYMBOLIC MODERNITY -- CALICO AND NANKEEN: THE NATURALIZATION OF COTTON -- LAPPET-WEAVE MUSLINS: FROM NOVELTY TO EXPORT -- VALENTIA, GAMBROON, DELAINE, AND ALPACA: MIXING TRADITIONS -- CHECKED AND STRIPED SILKS: THE OTHER HALF -- BLUE PRINTS AND PURPLE PRINTS: FOSSILIZATION OF FASHION -- PRINTED SHIRTINGS: CONCEALING MASCULINE FRIVOLITY -- MOIRÉ ANTIQUE: RETURN TO NATURE -- FROM CRAPE TO CRÊPE: CHANGING SURFACE VALUES -- KHAKI DRILL: THE NEW INVISIBILITY -- GABARDINE: CROSSING THE GENDER DIVIDE -- SHIRTINGS AND DRESSES: THE DISCIPLINE OF STRIPES -- FLANNELETTE: VOLATILE FASHIONS -- RUBBER AND WHALEBONE: MOULDED BY UNSUSTAINABILITY -- CONCLUSIONS -- CHAPTER TWO Production and Distribution -- FASHION PRODUCERS -- MODISTES AND CALICOTS -- THE INVENTION OF HAUTE COUTURE -- FASHION SPACES -- FASHION'S VIRTUAL MARKETPLACE -- CONCLUSION -- CHAPTER THREE The Body -- EXPOSING REVOLUTIONARY FASHIONS -- LEG O' MUTTON SLEEVE -- CAGE CRINOLINE -- BLOOMER DRESS -- CORSETS -- AESTHETIC DRESS -- THE NEW WOMAN -- CONCLUSION -- CHAPTER FOUR Belief -- RELIGIOUS DRESS IN THE AGE OF MODERNITY -- LEGIBILE DRESS -- WEDDINGS AND FUNERALS, OR, MARRYING, BURYING, AND BUYING -- PROPRIETY AND THE GREAT MASCULINE RENUNCIATION -- FALLEN WOMEN, FEMMES GALANTES , AND FINERY -- COMMODITY CULTURE AND CATHEDRALS OF COMMERCE -- CHAPTER FIVE Gender and Sexuality -- MASCULINITY, DANDYISM, AND THE THREE-PIECE SUIT -- THE CORSET, FEMININITY, AND FETISHISM -- CONCLUSION -- CHAPTER SIX Status -- FRATERNAL FUSTIAN -- SARTORIAL SALVATION -- MAIDS AND MISTRESSES -- CONCLUSION -- CHAPTER SEVEN Ethnicity -- ETHNICITY, RACE, AND FASHION -- FASHIONING RACE: SLAVERY AND BLACK DANDIES.

IMPERIAL RULE AND DELINEATIONS OF ETHNICITY -- INDIGENOUS PRODUCTS, CRAFT, AND INDUSTRY -- GENDER, NATIONALITY, AND MODERNITY -- CONCLUSION -- CHAPTER EIGHT Visual Representations -- PAINTING, 1800-60 -- FASHION ILLUSTRATION -- CARICATURE -- PHOTOGRAPHY, 1840-1900 -- PAINTING, 1860-1920 -- ADVERTISING POSTERS -- SCULPTURE -- FASHION SHOWS AND FASHION NEWSREELS -- FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY AND FASHION ILLUSTRATION IN THE TWENTIETH CENTURY -- FILM -- CHAPTER NINE Literary Representations -- WOMEN, FASHION, AND BRITISH GOTHIC ROMANCE -- "MONDERNITY," MASCULINITY, AND THE DANDY FLÂNEUR: YANGZHOU-PARIS-LONDON -- FASHION, GENDER, TRANSGRESSION -- FASHION, GENDER, POWER -- PROUST'S FORTUNY GOWNS -- NOTES -- BIBLIOGRAPHY -- NOTES ON CONTRIBUTORS -- INDEX.

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Electronic reproduction. Ann Arbor, Michigan : ProQuest Ebook Central, 2024. Available via World Wide Web. Access may be limited to ProQuest Ebook Central affiliated libraries.