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Formulations : In Cosmetic and Personal Care.

By: Material type: TextTextSeries: De Gruyter Textbook SeriesPublisher: Berlin/Boston : Walter de Gruyter GmbH, 2016Copyright date: ©2016Edition: 1st edDescription: 1 online resource (304 pages)Content type:
  • text
Media type:
  • computer
Carrier type:
  • online resource
ISBN:
  • 9783110452389
Subject(s): Genre/Form: Additional physical formats: Print version:: FormulationsLOC classification:
  • TP983.T337 2016
Online resources:
Contents:
Intro -- Preface -- Contents -- 1 General introduction -- 2 Surfactants used in cosmetic and personal care formulations, their properties and surfactant-polymer interaction -- 2.1 Surfactant classes -- 2.1.1 Anionic surfactants -- 2.1.2 Cationic surfactants -- 2.1.3 Amphoteric (zwitterionic) surfactants -- 2.1.4 Nonionic surfactants -- 2.1.5 Surfactants derived from mono- and polysaccharides -- 2.1.6 Naturally occurring surfactants -- 2.1.7 Polymeric (macromolecular) surfactants -- 2.1.8 Silicone surfactants -- 2.2 Physical properties of surfactant solutions and the process of micellization -- 2.2.1 Thermodynamics of micellization -- 2.3 Micellization in surfactant mixtures (mixed micelles) -- 2.4 Surfactant-polymer interaction -- 2.4.1 Factors influencing the association between surfactant and polymer -- 2.4.2 Interaction models -- 2.4.3 Driving force for surfactant/polymer interaction -- 2.4.4 Structure of surfactant/polymer complexes -- 2.4.5 Surfactant/hydrophobically modified polymer interaction -- 2.4.6 Interaction between surfactants and polymers with opposite charge (surfactant/polyelectrolyte interaction) -- 3 Polymeric surfactants in cosmetic formulations -- 3.1 Introduction -- 3.2 General classification of polymeric surfactants -- 3.3 Polymeric surfactant adsorption and conformation -- 3.3.1 Measurement of the adsorption isotherm -- 3.3.2 Measurement of the fraction of segments p -- 3.3.3 Determination of the segment density distribution ?(z) and adsorbed layer thickness dh -- 3.4 Examples of the adsorption results of nonionic polymeric surfactant -- 3.4.1 Adsorption isotherms -- 3.4.2 Adsorbed layer thickness results -- 3.5 Kinetics of polymer adsorption -- 3.6 Emulsions stabilized by polymeric surfactants -- 4 Self-assembly structures in cosmetic formulations -- 4.1 Introduction -- 4.2 Self-assembly structures.
4.3 Structure of liquid crystalline phases -- 4.3.1 Hexagonal phase -- 4.3.2 Micellar cubic phase -- 4.3.3 Lamellar phase -- 4.3.4 Discontinuous cubic phases -- 4.3.5 Reversed structures -- 4.4 Driving force for liquid crystalline phase formation -- 4.5 Identification of the liquid crystalline phases and investigation of their structure -- 4.6 Formulation of liquid crystalline phases -- 4.6.1 Oleosomes -- 4.6.2 Hydrosomes -- 5 Interaction forces between particles or droplets in cosmetic formulations and their combination -- 5.1 Van der Waals attraction -- 5.2 Electrostatic repulsion -- 5.3 Flocculation of electrostatically stabilized dispersions -- 5.4 Criteria for stabilization of dispersions with double layer interaction -- 5.5 Steric repulsion -- 5.5.1 Mixing interaction Gmix -- 5.5.2 Elastic interaction Gel -- 5.5.3 Total energy of interaction -- 5.5.4 Criteria for effective steric stabilization -- 5.5.5 Flocculation of sterically stabilized dispersions -- 6 Formulation of cosmetic emulsions -- 6.1 Introduction -- 6.2 Thermodynamics of emulsion formation -- 6.3 Emulsion breakdown processes and their prevention -- 6.3.1 Creaming and sedimentation -- 6.3.2 Flocculation -- 6.3.3 Ostwald ripening (disproportionation) -- 6.3.4 Coalescence -- 6.3.5 Phase Inversion -- 6.4 Selection of emulsifiers -- 6.4.1 The Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance (HLB) concept -- 6.4.2 The Phase Inversion Temperature (PIT) concept -- 6.4.3 The Cohesive Energy Ratio (CER) concept -- 6.4.4 The Critical Packing Parameter (CPP) for emulsion selection -- 6.5 Manufacture of cosmetic emulsions -- 6.5.1 Mechanism of emulsification -- 6.5.2 Methods of emulsification -- 6.6 Rheological properties of cosmetic emulsions -- 7 Formulation of nanoemulsions in cosmetics -- 7.1 Introduction -- 7.2 Preparation of nanoemulsion by the use of high pressure homogenizers.
7.3 Low-energy methods for preparation of nanoemulsions -- 7.3.1 Phase Inversion Composition (PIC) principle -- 7.3.2 Phase Inversion Temperature (PIT) principle -- 7.3.3 Preparation of nanoemulsions by dilution of microemulsions -- 7.4 Practical examples of nanoemulsions -- 7.5 Nanoemulsions based on polymeric surfactants -- 8 Formulation of multiple emulsions in cosmetics -- 8.1 Introduction -- 8.2 Types of multiple emulsions -- 8.3 Breakdown processes of multiple emulsions -- 8.4 Preparation of multiple emulsions -- 8.5 Characterization of multiple emulsions -- 8.5.1 Droplet size analysis -- 8.5.2 Dialysis -- 8.5.3 Rheological techniques -- 8.6 Summary of the factors affecting stability of multiple emulsions and criteria for their stabilization -- 9 Liposomes and vesicles in cosmetic formulations -- 9.1 Introduction -- 9.2 Nomenclature of liposomes and their classification -- 9.3 Driving force for formation of vesicles -- 10 Formulation of shampoos -- 10.1 Introduction -- 10.2 Surfactants for use in shampoo formulations -- 10.2.1 Anionic surfactants -- 10.2.2 Amphoteric surfactants -- 10.2.3 Nonionic surfactants -- 10.3 Properties of a shampoo -- 10.4 Components of a shampoo -- 10.4.1 Cleansing agents -- 10.4.2 Foam boosters -- 10.4.3 Thickening agents -- 10.4.4 Preservatives -- 10.4.5 Miscellaneous additives -- 10.5 Role of the components -- 10.5.1 Behaviour of mixed surfactant systems -- 10.5.2 Cleansing function -- 10.5.3 Foam boosters -- 10.5.4 Thickeners and rheology modifiers -- 10.5.5 Silicone oil emulsions in shampoos -- 10.6 Use of associative thickeners as rheology modifiers in shampoos -- 11 Formulation of hair conditioners in shampoos -- 11.1 Introduction -- 11.2 Morphology of hair -- 11.3 Surface properties of hair -- 11.3.1 Wettability investigations -- 11.3.2 Electrokinetic studies.
11.4 Role of surfactants and polymers in hair conditioners -- 12 Formulation of sunscreens for UV protection -- 12.1 Introduction -- 12.2 Mechanism of absorbance and scattering by TiO2 and ZnO -- 12.3 Preparation of well-dispersed particles -- 12.4 Experimental results for sterically stabilized TiO2 dispersions in nonaqueous media -- 12.5 Competitive interactions in sunscreen formulations -- 13 Formulation of colour cosmetics -- 13.1 Introduction -- 13.2 Fundamental principles for preparation of a stable colour cosmetic dispersion -- 13.2.1 Powder wetting -- 13.2.2 Powder dispersion and milling (comminution) -- 13.2.3 Stabilization of the dispersion against aggregation -- 13.3 Classes of dispersing agents -- 13.4 Assessment of dispersants -- 13.4.1 Adsorption isotherms -- 13.4.2 Measurement of dispersion and particle size distribution -- 13.4.3 Rheological measurements -- 13.5 Application of the above fundamental principles to colour cosmetics -- 13.6 Principles of preparation of colour cosmetics -- 13.7 Competitive interactions in colour cosmetic formulations -- 14 Industrial examples of cosmetic and personal care formulations -- 14.1 Shaving formulations -- 14.2 Bar soaps -- 14.3 Liquid hand soaps -- 14.4 Bath oils -- 14.5 Foam (or bubble) baths -- 14.6 After bath preparations -- 14.7 Skincare products -- 14.8 Haircare formulations -- 14.9 Sunscreens -- 14.10 Make-up products -- Index.
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Intro -- Preface -- Contents -- 1 General introduction -- 2 Surfactants used in cosmetic and personal care formulations, their properties and surfactant-polymer interaction -- 2.1 Surfactant classes -- 2.1.1 Anionic surfactants -- 2.1.2 Cationic surfactants -- 2.1.3 Amphoteric (zwitterionic) surfactants -- 2.1.4 Nonionic surfactants -- 2.1.5 Surfactants derived from mono- and polysaccharides -- 2.1.6 Naturally occurring surfactants -- 2.1.7 Polymeric (macromolecular) surfactants -- 2.1.8 Silicone surfactants -- 2.2 Physical properties of surfactant solutions and the process of micellization -- 2.2.1 Thermodynamics of micellization -- 2.3 Micellization in surfactant mixtures (mixed micelles) -- 2.4 Surfactant-polymer interaction -- 2.4.1 Factors influencing the association between surfactant and polymer -- 2.4.2 Interaction models -- 2.4.3 Driving force for surfactant/polymer interaction -- 2.4.4 Structure of surfactant/polymer complexes -- 2.4.5 Surfactant/hydrophobically modified polymer interaction -- 2.4.6 Interaction between surfactants and polymers with opposite charge (surfactant/polyelectrolyte interaction) -- 3 Polymeric surfactants in cosmetic formulations -- 3.1 Introduction -- 3.2 General classification of polymeric surfactants -- 3.3 Polymeric surfactant adsorption and conformation -- 3.3.1 Measurement of the adsorption isotherm -- 3.3.2 Measurement of the fraction of segments p -- 3.3.3 Determination of the segment density distribution ?(z) and adsorbed layer thickness dh -- 3.4 Examples of the adsorption results of nonionic polymeric surfactant -- 3.4.1 Adsorption isotherms -- 3.4.2 Adsorbed layer thickness results -- 3.5 Kinetics of polymer adsorption -- 3.6 Emulsions stabilized by polymeric surfactants -- 4 Self-assembly structures in cosmetic formulations -- 4.1 Introduction -- 4.2 Self-assembly structures.

4.3 Structure of liquid crystalline phases -- 4.3.1 Hexagonal phase -- 4.3.2 Micellar cubic phase -- 4.3.3 Lamellar phase -- 4.3.4 Discontinuous cubic phases -- 4.3.5 Reversed structures -- 4.4 Driving force for liquid crystalline phase formation -- 4.5 Identification of the liquid crystalline phases and investigation of their structure -- 4.6 Formulation of liquid crystalline phases -- 4.6.1 Oleosomes -- 4.6.2 Hydrosomes -- 5 Interaction forces between particles or droplets in cosmetic formulations and their combination -- 5.1 Van der Waals attraction -- 5.2 Electrostatic repulsion -- 5.3 Flocculation of electrostatically stabilized dispersions -- 5.4 Criteria for stabilization of dispersions with double layer interaction -- 5.5 Steric repulsion -- 5.5.1 Mixing interaction Gmix -- 5.5.2 Elastic interaction Gel -- 5.5.3 Total energy of interaction -- 5.5.4 Criteria for effective steric stabilization -- 5.5.5 Flocculation of sterically stabilized dispersions -- 6 Formulation of cosmetic emulsions -- 6.1 Introduction -- 6.2 Thermodynamics of emulsion formation -- 6.3 Emulsion breakdown processes and their prevention -- 6.3.1 Creaming and sedimentation -- 6.3.2 Flocculation -- 6.3.3 Ostwald ripening (disproportionation) -- 6.3.4 Coalescence -- 6.3.5 Phase Inversion -- 6.4 Selection of emulsifiers -- 6.4.1 The Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance (HLB) concept -- 6.4.2 The Phase Inversion Temperature (PIT) concept -- 6.4.3 The Cohesive Energy Ratio (CER) concept -- 6.4.4 The Critical Packing Parameter (CPP) for emulsion selection -- 6.5 Manufacture of cosmetic emulsions -- 6.5.1 Mechanism of emulsification -- 6.5.2 Methods of emulsification -- 6.6 Rheological properties of cosmetic emulsions -- 7 Formulation of nanoemulsions in cosmetics -- 7.1 Introduction -- 7.2 Preparation of nanoemulsion by the use of high pressure homogenizers.

7.3 Low-energy methods for preparation of nanoemulsions -- 7.3.1 Phase Inversion Composition (PIC) principle -- 7.3.2 Phase Inversion Temperature (PIT) principle -- 7.3.3 Preparation of nanoemulsions by dilution of microemulsions -- 7.4 Practical examples of nanoemulsions -- 7.5 Nanoemulsions based on polymeric surfactants -- 8 Formulation of multiple emulsions in cosmetics -- 8.1 Introduction -- 8.2 Types of multiple emulsions -- 8.3 Breakdown processes of multiple emulsions -- 8.4 Preparation of multiple emulsions -- 8.5 Characterization of multiple emulsions -- 8.5.1 Droplet size analysis -- 8.5.2 Dialysis -- 8.5.3 Rheological techniques -- 8.6 Summary of the factors affecting stability of multiple emulsions and criteria for their stabilization -- 9 Liposomes and vesicles in cosmetic formulations -- 9.1 Introduction -- 9.2 Nomenclature of liposomes and their classification -- 9.3 Driving force for formation of vesicles -- 10 Formulation of shampoos -- 10.1 Introduction -- 10.2 Surfactants for use in shampoo formulations -- 10.2.1 Anionic surfactants -- 10.2.2 Amphoteric surfactants -- 10.2.3 Nonionic surfactants -- 10.3 Properties of a shampoo -- 10.4 Components of a shampoo -- 10.4.1 Cleansing agents -- 10.4.2 Foam boosters -- 10.4.3 Thickening agents -- 10.4.4 Preservatives -- 10.4.5 Miscellaneous additives -- 10.5 Role of the components -- 10.5.1 Behaviour of mixed surfactant systems -- 10.5.2 Cleansing function -- 10.5.3 Foam boosters -- 10.5.4 Thickeners and rheology modifiers -- 10.5.5 Silicone oil emulsions in shampoos -- 10.6 Use of associative thickeners as rheology modifiers in shampoos -- 11 Formulation of hair conditioners in shampoos -- 11.1 Introduction -- 11.2 Morphology of hair -- 11.3 Surface properties of hair -- 11.3.1 Wettability investigations -- 11.3.2 Electrokinetic studies.

11.4 Role of surfactants and polymers in hair conditioners -- 12 Formulation of sunscreens for UV protection -- 12.1 Introduction -- 12.2 Mechanism of absorbance and scattering by TiO2 and ZnO -- 12.3 Preparation of well-dispersed particles -- 12.4 Experimental results for sterically stabilized TiO2 dispersions in nonaqueous media -- 12.5 Competitive interactions in sunscreen formulations -- 13 Formulation of colour cosmetics -- 13.1 Introduction -- 13.2 Fundamental principles for preparation of a stable colour cosmetic dispersion -- 13.2.1 Powder wetting -- 13.2.2 Powder dispersion and milling (comminution) -- 13.2.3 Stabilization of the dispersion against aggregation -- 13.3 Classes of dispersing agents -- 13.4 Assessment of dispersants -- 13.4.1 Adsorption isotherms -- 13.4.2 Measurement of dispersion and particle size distribution -- 13.4.3 Rheological measurements -- 13.5 Application of the above fundamental principles to colour cosmetics -- 13.6 Principles of preparation of colour cosmetics -- 13.7 Competitive interactions in colour cosmetic formulations -- 14 Industrial examples of cosmetic and personal care formulations -- 14.1 Shaving formulations -- 14.2 Bar soaps -- 14.3 Liquid hand soaps -- 14.4 Bath oils -- 14.5 Foam (or bubble) baths -- 14.6 After bath preparations -- 14.7 Skincare products -- 14.8 Haircare formulations -- 14.9 Sunscreens -- 14.10 Make-up products -- Index.

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Electronic reproduction. Ann Arbor, Michigan : ProQuest Ebook Central, 2024. Available via World Wide Web. Access may be limited to ProQuest Ebook Central affiliated libraries.

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